All About Asparagus
Did we miss the memo that there’s gold to be found in The Netherlands? Not in the elemental sort of way, but yes, the Dutch do have gold. Witte goud, or white gold, can only be found in the spring in the form of white asparagus. The season is very short, so the Dutch make the most of it while they can, and flock to grocery stores and markets as soon as the first asparagus come out. But why the obsession?
Going all the way back to The Roman Empire, asparagus can be found growing across western Europe. It was highly regarded not only for its flavour but for its medicinal properties, including being used as a diuretic and an aphrodisiac. A recipe for cooking asparagus even shows up in De re coquinaria, one of the worlds oldest surviving cookbooks.
White asparagus didn’t show up until many centuries later, in the 17th century. Farmers began surrounding asparagus shoots with soil to shade them. Without sunshine, the shoots failed to absorb any chlorophyl, which is vital to the green colour in vegetables. The result was a tender, less bitter, nuttier flavoured asparagus and was embraced as a delicacy. It was generally grown in monasteries and reserved for nobility.
Large scale white asparagus farming in The Netherlands didn’t really take off until after World War 1, mostly in the provinces of Limburg and North Brabant. As it became more readily available, all people could enjoy it. The Netherlands is one of the largest producers of white asparagus in Europe, a fact the Dutch take great pride in. About 19,000 tonnes of asparagus is grown annually, 80-100% being white, with a large percentage being exported to Germany. As it is more labour intensive since the shoots constantly need to be covered with soil, white asparagus is more expensive than its green counterpart, but the Dutch feel that the added expense is absolutely worth it.
A few more interesting facts regarding asparagus, since it very likely is not a vegetable that has ever been given much thought:
Do we grow white asparagus in Canada? We do, in Saskatchewan and Alberta, but it is considered a specialty, niche crop.
Are green and white asparagus different plants? Originally no, just the white was grown underground, and the green above ground. With advanced techniques in farming and seeds, new and different varieties have been developed.
Do asparagus plants have to be planted each year?
No. Asparagus plants are perennial and are able to produce for 15 to 30 years.
How is asparagus harvested if the plants are underground? Farmers harvest the white asparagus at dawn or dusk to avoid sunlight. They seem to know just where to get the asparagus plant and use a special knife to cut the stems without damaging the roots. It’s very labour intensive.
So now we have a more in-depth knowledge of a Dutch favourite, but how do we cook it? We have you covered. Try this recipe for traditional Dutch white asparagus!
